Once I finish dressing the fret ends with the fret end dressing file, I then mask the fretboard & neck edge with masking tape and use a variable speed Dremel tool (on slow speed), with a fiber wheel & appropriate polishing compound, to polish the frets & fret ends to a mirror finish. Thomas I just use a Stanly knife (the hollow handle one) with a normal blade ground into a hook configuration with the Dremmel sanding sleeve 1/2 inch variety to give the inside part of the hook. The pointy end and blade edge is ground flat so it doesn't cut into the bottom of the slot. The width is just right for most used fret slots.
Hi Thomas,
- If you want to use your Dremel tool for cutting wood, then the best option for you is to invest in a carbide cutting wheel. These bits are great at quickly cutting through even the toughest pieces of wood. For wood carving, you can get hardened high-speed steel bits or carbide bits. The carbide bits are more durable and will last you for a while.
- When cutting fret slots in rosewood, ebony or african blackwood fingerboards (Janka value greater than 2,700 lbf) or any wood with a high silica content, it is better to use a relieved-neck shell cutter (MS3I8 family) because of their superior stiffness and resistance to breakage. Shell cutters compatible with the most popular fret wire sizes.
Last time I looked 1/32' is around .030, whereas fret tangs are typically .020 + a bit. The Dremmel isn't famous for its bearing and bit stability and this coupled with skinny bit run-out seem like a recipe for disaster (unless you intend to use the full glue in fret 'Teeter' method). Maybe I missed something - anybody?
Rusty.
- Permalink Reply by Thomas James on July 18, 2013 at 6:28pm
- Permalink Reply by William F.Eden on July 18, 2013 at 6:46pm
Thanks. Not willing to go the full 'Teeter' as I don't want damage the fretboard for the future. Back to the slow pick.
Hi Tom.
I agree, the Dremel is too sloppy.
I make custom fret slot cleaning devices out of feeler gauges. You can pick your thickness & create the correct shape & edge using the Dremel. They're plenty 'accurate' for that.
BTW: A livestock rancher friend of mine told me that the curved fret cleaning blades Stew-Mac sells are simply pig castration device blades available at most farm supply stores dirt cheap. If you need extras or some to customize, there's your source. I have no info (on purpose) on the dreaded device they're used in.
Best of luck :)
Recently, I dremeled teeth into some feeler gauges, a la the unlamented, 'Norman's Nutfiles', to clean out fretslots one ten thou at a time. This worked spectacularly well! Don't pull all the way through, to keep from getting chipouts.
I'm thinking that these could be mounted in handles of some sort, to act as a depthstop.
I'd include a photo, but my shop's been moved, and needs unpacking...
I do have a Foredom tool, but either way I guess the extra wide .0313 1/32' slot is not what I am after considering standard fret tang sizes as Rusty mentioned. I like the feeler gauge ideas. I did serrate one after seeing those 'nut files' on eBay a while back. It does make a crude little saw. I will try that in the slots. I would love see a photo Jeffrey when you get settled. Thanks for the input everyone. My hands are getting older, and I guess shortcuts are looking like younger women.
Thomas I just use a Stanly knife (the hollow handle one) with a normal blade ground into a hook configuration with the Dremmel sanding sleeve 1/2 inch variety to give the inside part of the hook. The pointy end and blade edge is ground flat so it doesn't cut into the bottom of the slot. The width is just right for most used fret slots. The full size handle gives good control and for bound guitars its easy to work from close to each edge inwards so as to not damage the binding with a slip.
The pig castration blades (that makes me shiver to even write it) that Paul mentioned are best use for 'nut' slots (just kidding)..........
Rusty.
LOL. I had to wish that pig knife out of my mind. Looks like I'll do some tool making. Thanks to all!
As Rusty said, experiment with utility knife blades, there are all sorts of shapes and thicknesses. I like the upholstery cutter as it is hook-shaped, it only needs a light pass on the belt sander to get to correct thickness.
I always use my slot cutting saw on unbound boards. I would take a junior hacksaw blade and cut it to piece and glue it to a long piece of dowel and use that on bound boards. Make some test cuts with various blades that are available to you. Either the butchers hackblade or junior hacksaw blades are app .020' kerf.
As for the slot width whenever I see the frets were glued with CA, I cannot really tell what's the real slot width was as CA tends to coat the sides and narrows the slot quite a bit.
The dremel works great but like any other technique requires practice, as well as the correct bits. What you need are micro endmills. I buy them 15-20 at a time in sizes from .018 through .025'. They are available on the web starting at around $12-15 each. I buy the carbide 2 flute, with a cut length of ~.080'.
I do a LOT of refretting and this method offers repeatable, consistent accuracy and speed. I use the dremel for almost every fret job I do, excluding (but sometimes including) compression refrets on old Martins. I've used the same dremel and Stew-Mac base since 1991 or so, with satisfactory results consistently (49 refrets this year so far, since opening my new shop in late February) The much-talked about runout is a non-issue, but the key is practice and developing the feel for the tool. Here is a video I made for the 2011 Martin Repair Summit.
Mark,
Great video. I am going give that a shot. Could you provide your source for the end mills? Roughly how long do the bits last? Also, have you had any issues with heat melting the binding? Thanks. Tom
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Photo 1
If you’re into maintaining, repairing, or modding guitars, odds are you already have a decent collection of tools. In addition to various screwdrivers and nut drivers, your toolkit will likely contain specialized files, precision rulers, truss rod wrenches, a power drill, and a soldering kit—the usual suspects.
But you know you’re hardcore when you have a Dremel rotary tool. (Okay, a rolling metal tool chest qualifies as hardcore, too.) An invaluable piece of equipment for any shop, a Dremel lets you accomplish many tasks, including engraving, routing, grinding, and polishing.
Dremel makes several different models of rotary tools. Mine is the variable-speed Moto-Tool 395 (Photo 1). With a top speed of 30,000 rpm, it’s a little workhorse with five different speed settings to handle any project. (Dremel has updated this model with the 3000 series.)
Let’s look at five ways to use a Dremel on a guitar. If you have a rotary tool, these projects may inspire you to haul it out and get busy. If you don’t, perhaps you’ll consider acquiring one. Most home improvement stores sell Dremels, and they’re often bundled in a kit with attachments—pads, wheels, and bits—that cover a multitude of guitar-oriented tasks. In addition, there are specialized attachments that are only available through such luthier suppliers as Stewart-McDonald or Luthiers Mercantile.
Photo 2
If you’re working on guitars, the Flex-Shaft (Photo 2) is a crucial Dremel accessory. It allows you to maneuver into positions that are difficult or impossible to reach with just the Dremel itself.
Okay, here are the five projects we’ll cover; they each require different attachments.
• Polishing frets on a maple fretboard.
• Removing burrs from tuning keys.
• Shortening height adjustments screws in Fender-style bridge saddles.
• Cutting string slots in an acoustic bridge.
• Grinding off sharp edges on an acoustic bridge saddle.
Tip: Before you fire up a Dremel—or any other power tool—always don safety glasses!
Polishing frets on a maple fretboard. You never want to use sandpaper or emery cloth—even if it’s ultra fine—to clean and polish the frets by hand on a maple fretboard with a glossy finish. It’s too easy to scratch or damage the surrounding finish.
Photo 3
Cutting Fret Slots With A Dremel Bits
But a small buffing wheel mounted on a Dremel tool is ideal for the job (Photo 3). Just put a few drops of buffing compound on the wheel (I use Planet Waves Restore), and set the tool to a medium speed.
Gently glide the buffing wheel along the length of the fret. Don’t use a lot of pressure when buffing. If you force the wheel onto the fret, it can slip off and possibly burn the finish on the fretboard. A slow, steady, light touch will do it right.
Cutting Fret Slots With A Dremel Bit
After you’ve buffed all the frets, wipe down the fretboard with a clean polishing cloth.